Thursday, 5 May 2011

posh pub grub: the wick at both ends review.


With its midnight black exterior, vintage gold gates and elaborately painted sign, The Wick at both Ends looks like it could well be Harry Potter’s local.

Step inside to be greeted by an array of mismatched stools, quirky lamp shades and comfortable, well-loved armchairs. The friendly staff stand behind the bar stacked with a hodge-podge of curiously shaped bottles filled with alcoholic potions and poisons. I am told by head chef Nick Booth that from traditional beers to their signature sandcastle bucket cocktails, there will always be something to compliment whatever I choose on the menu.

As I gaze along the endless list of dishes from pan fried pork fillet with wholegrain mustard mash to baked polenta with stir fried broccoli, fennel and spring onion, the well presented menu tells me which dishes are “perfect to share,” what I can “add” and that “vegan options” can be ordered at the bar. I am already convinced that with these interesting ingredients and intricate combinations this is going to be so much more than a pub lunch.

“I would say that our food is classically English with a modern twist, with elements of Mediterranean food.” Nick, former senior sous-chef at Sheffield’s awarding winning tapas bar Platillos explained. Chef at The Wick’s sister pub, The Harley, who previously worked at The Wig and Pen, he tells me his influences include Marco Pierre White and Jason Atherton.


Monkfish wrapped in Serrano ham on a bed of samphire, olives and new potatoes
I choose the monkfish dusted with saffron wrapped in Serrano ham and butter fried. It is served with new potatoes, in a herb and caper butter with spring onion, rocket, samphire and kalamata olives. The lemony almost dressing-like butter with a distintictive yet subtle taste of caper berries has melted through the fresh tasting samphire. Delicately placed parcels of Serrano wrapped monkfish are at first crispy to bite and then soft inside. It is no coincidence that the seaweed family vegetable samphire, lemon and capers are the perfect compliment to a fish based dish.

The previous chatter with my friend turns into that “I’m-enjoying-my-meal-silence” as I glance over at her tucking into a platter of salt and pepper squid, Serrano ham, manchego cheese, hummus, tzatziki and rustic bread. Charming taster portions of this posh dipping platter
serve as a great light lunch or, I’m told, a shared starter.

With locally sourced ingredients from Sheffield’s All Seasons Fruit and Veg, Ray Woodward’s Yorkshire beef and Derbyshire’s Herb Table, there is no doubt these dishes have been made with loving care.

“I have recently designed this new menu to add more seasonal salads and Spring inspired dishes. My particular favourite dishes are the fish and the squid and grapefruit salad. But then we also have the hearty pies and enchiladas too.” continues Nick.

I finish with a duo of white and dark chocolate mousses served with shortbread. And instantly decide that I’ll be going back for seconds.

Like The Wick on Facebook

The Wick at Both Ends, West Street, Sheffield.


Square Meal

No comments:

Post a Comment