sushi: how britain became addicted to raw fish.

Cast your mind to a breezy, summer afternoon. Feeling a little peckish, you stumble into your trusty local supermarket and begin to rummage through your pockets for loose change.

Your eyes dart towards a sign which reads ‘Food to go.’ Hastily, you dodge your way past a googly-eyed toddler absentmindedly devouring a precarious 99 flake and make a beeline for £3 lunch-time heaven. You hear a distant voice ask ‘Are you using your own bags?’ as you skim the inviting shelves.

Granary, oatmeal, wholemeal. Cob, bap, roll. Extra cheese, no mayonnaise, with cracked black pepper. A rainbow row of crisp packets fighting for your attention amidst stacks of granola and fruit medleys. As you reach for a trusty BLT and check your selections add up to the all important ‘meal deal’, you notice something a little different.

Rice? Seaweed? Wasabi? They definitely don’t come with a wholemeal option. And California roll, wasn’t that a song in the sixties?

Yet a few months later, you discover yourself swapping plastic forks for chopsticks and keeping a spare bottle of soy sauce in your car glove box just in case. And so this is how Britain became addicted to raw fish.

As crates of pre-packed sushi find themselves in garage forecourts and sushi plates are thrown onto conveyor belts, the slithers of salmon placed upon perfect parcels of sticky rice are more popular than ever.

Farewell to the suave snack between million pound Japanese business deals. Now sushi bars can even be found at Butlins resorts, between the fish and chip shops and candy floss vans. On a recent survey, 60% of 16-25 year olds admitted they’d like their own personal sushi belt. Is sushi becoming the new chicken tikka masala?

“I’ve always loved trying out new cuisine. I began by buying attractive sushi variety packs but now I’ve tried it in a restaurant I definitely wouldn’t go anywhere else.” 

And it’s true. It must go without saying, the comparison is rather like having the choice between a pre-made meatball sandwich and a freshly cut and panfried steak. Minus the cooking of course. But in this self-serve century we find ourselves in, we must cater for the masses, and quick. There is no way a supermarket could cater for requests of a freshly sliced yellowfin tuna and salmon roe selection. And why should they? When we’re happily munching on, essentially, rolled up tinned tuna, seafood sticks and fish-shaped bottles of soy sauce. The label proudly beaming ‘Not raw fish’ for us Brits to see. There’s no doubt some sushi lovers could be getting a raw deal.

Another worry is the celebrity get-fit-quick culture which sushi seems to have lent itself too. With actresses Reese Witherspoon and Jennifer Aniston, model Lauren Conrad and even British actor Andrew Garfield hailing sushi as the new slim fix, there’s no wonder the dinky delights dance their way into the latest gossip magazines. Katy Perry took this part quite literally in this rather fantastic sushi ensemble.

No fear, certainly a couple of harmless plates of sushi and a few sips of saki would ever be akin to a night on the town with that essential kebab and chips. Well, what could be healthier than seafood, iron-packed seaweed and a bit of rice? But like all things, moderation is the key; sushi can be lumbered with calories and extremely high in salt. A single California roll, a Western favourite, can easily contain 400 calories and 5g of salt. Pretty shocking when a serving of McDonalds fries has around 450 calories.

Salmon and tuna sushi in particular is often saluted for its high levels of Omega three fats. However  the Food Standards Agency urges consumers that high levels of mercury found in these types of fish can be toxic and can build up in the body if overeaten.

Me loving life at the Sushi Awards 2011

Fortunately something is being done. In the last year, chains like Yo! Sushi are signed a Public Health Responsibility Deal with the government. Spokeswoman Renata Fukuthi explained, “We pledge to deliver a 15% salt reduction and responsibly sized portions by 2012 by adapting their menu.”

Another thing, those of you who screwed up their face at the idea of raw fish and feared seafood poisoning, will be pleased to know you can munch on the likes of hoisin duck noodles, chicken katsu curry and crispy prawn tempura.

But there's no stopping me... sushi lovers unite!

Now, where are my chopsticks?

door to door cupcakes: the baking couple who deliver sweet treats direct to city offices.

Just like following Hansel and Gretel's trail of crumbs, office workers in need of a sugar hit can now go online to track the progress of a man delivering cakes across Derby.

Tony Jacobs visits offices with a wicker basket full of cupcakes and other sweet treats made by his wife, Victoria, that are for sale.

                                                     

And people can find out his location by logging on to the couple's website and looking at an interactive map tracking his progress.

Tony, 43, who delivers the cakes while Victoria, 39, spends the day baking, said: "Our specialities are traditional cakes like Victoria sponges and lemon drizzle cakes, but we've noticed cupcakes are becoming more popular.

"We like to keep it simple by doing three flavours and doing them well. We make hundreds of cakes a week in the flavours of vanilla, lemon and Belgian chocolate."

The couple, of Friar Gate, set up their company, Love Cakes, last year and began selling their bakery treats at Chesterfield market.

But their products have proved so popular that they no longer have time to run the stall, instead concentrating on orders and deliveries.

They pride themselves on natural British ingredients and do not use food colouring or any decorations that do not meet these requirements.

They use natural sugar sprinkles, homemade jams, get their eggs from Highfield Happy Hens in Etwall and fruit from Ted Corden's grocery in Derby Market Hall.

Tony said: "The other day we took an order for 18th birthday cupcakes with a homemade sugar photograph of the lad on his first day at school. We also once we had an order for 400 vanilla cupcakes and did them in the charity's colours. That was definitely an all-nighter."

They have a popular lime and coconut cake and their newest invention is Dancing Duck beer loaf cake, handmade with ale from Derby's Dancing Duck Brewery in Ashbourne Road.

This week their cake basket included Belgian chocolate loaf cake, apple and almond cake and vanilla cupcakes.

They also provide petit fours for the Mansion restaurant, in Midland Road, and take large orders for birthdays and weddings.

Much of their popularity has been through word of mouth and social networking site Twitter.

Tony said: "The amazing responses we get from around Derby always bring a smile. Victoria really has a passion for baking cakes and it really shows through in her little masterpieces."

For more information, log on to Love Cakes Derby ♥

Written for the Derby Telegraph and also posted on emily's recipes and reviews x

a slice of summer: food gusto festival

Forget digging to the back of the freezer for last year’s rocket lollies or declaring war on the spider family lurking in your dusty barbeque.
This summer, grab a slice of foodie heaven at the Food Gusto Festival this August Bank Holiday. All are welcome to nibble, glug, slurp and savour the best of British at the Appleby Magna event, which takes place at the stunning Sir John Moore Foundation on August 27.
Taste freshly cooked organic beef burgers, perhaps pig out on the tasty hog roast or get your five-a-day with a locally sourced vegetable box. For those with a sweet tooth, try Gopsell Farm’s famous apple crumble ice cream or discover the delights of Lou-la-belle’s charming cup cakes. Served, of course, with a cup of English Breakfast tea.
Or perhaps take a little piece of a Leicestershire country garden back with you. The Witches Garden is a North West Leicestershire herbery dedicated to knowing their fennel from figwart and mint from their marjoram.
Feeling inspired? Get stuck into The School of Artisan Food’s Cookery Demonstrations. Watch and learn how to make wood-fired bread, handraised pies, pates and terrines, Artisan chocolate and hedgerow cordials. You might even get a taste, if you’ve got any room left.
From 10-3pm, the festival is J11 of the M42. Free for children, £3 for adults or £2 with voucher from the Food Gusto website.
Pick up your copy of Leicestershire Life magazine for more about foodie events across the county.

from field to farmhouse: farndon fields.

Imagine sitting in a cosy farmhouse tearoom taking a bite of a deliciously warm roasted asparagus tart whilst sipping on an ice cold glass of Victorian lemonade. You think how convenient it would be if you could have it wrapped up, in a gingham napkin of course, and take it home for tea. Well, at Farndon Fields Farm Shop in Market Harborough you can.

Their try local, buy local shopping experience means that you can visit thinking you want a box of pretty pansies for your garden and discover they grow your favourite Leicestershire strawberries, all in one day.

It started back in 1983 when Kevin and Milly Stokes’s passion for potatoes and vegetables saw the opening of a small shop from their Market Harborough farm garage. By 1998 they had a purpose built farm shop extension, broadening their dairy selection, and making room for a locally stocked bakery.

Five years later and the 2000s saw the introduction of a butchery, cafe and plant centre to their 250 acre farm.

“It all started almost 28 years ago now and has quite literally grown ever since. We now grow over 40 different types of vegetables and 6 varieties of potato,” explained Milly.

Their homegrown seasonal produce currently includes a mouthwatering selection of raspberries, leeks and asparagus; which in this warm weather it can grow up to 6 inches during the night.

“We’ve had a great crop of strawberries this year as it’s been so hot and dry, which has made them really sweet. But then this proves a problem for growing potatoes, as they require really wet weather.”

Their assortment of cheeses for all seasons can be perfect accompanied by a range of alcohol, which boasts Langston Brewery beer, Welland Valley wine and Melton Mowbray Sloe Gin. With their Mediterranean inspired deli opening in the next few weeks, knowledgeable Deli Manager Liz has been sourcing tasty treats from chorizo and salami to an appetising olive bar.

“We’ve recently bought 9 pigs and feeding them on our waste vegetables hoping to begin selling our own pork. So watch this space,” Milly continued.

“Our staff have such good product knowledge and are always providing recipe ideas and hosting food tasters. Next week we’re going to be trialing some curry causes made locally for people to sample.”

Whilst Mike, their butcher, sources the very best of local lamb from Greenfields at Twycross, sponge cake expert Kim is busy in the baking fresh chocolate cakes and Victoria sponges every day for the cafe. Not to mention their cupcakes to conserves and juices to jams that fly off the shelves each week.

And food miles? Well, there are none. Nil, zilch, zero. Everything they sell is either produced by them on the farm or sourced from local farmers and experts around Leicestershire and the Midlands.

“This is what real local should be. We aim to give people a really personal shopping experience and get to taste allsorts of great Midlands produce. We like people to say ‘oh I really like this where can I get it?’ and then instantly be able to rustle one up for them to takeaway.”

“It’s just all about the fascinating process from growing the produce to eating it later on that day.”

Read more about other foodie gems in the Midlands here at Great Food Magazine.

the sweet taste of success: my trip to a leicestershire dessert factory.

You might have enjoyed a Torta Della Nonna at an Italian restaurant – that may have been one of Vittles’.

You might have nibbled on a Banana and Honeycomb cupcake in a cafe – that could have been one of Vittles’.

And you might have indulged in a slice of Chocolate Junkyard from your local supermarket – that very possibly was one of Vittles’.

Leicester-based family business Vittles are the undercover stars of the baking world. You’ve loved the products, but you’ve probably never heard the name. That’s because they modestly make their cakes for other people, and stay out of the limelight themselves.

And who would’ve thought that this booming business of delectable desserts had it’s humble beginnings 24 years ago in a two bedroom terraced house on Fairfield Street, South Wigston?

“Back then in our tiny terrace, we had to dismantle the oven and rebuild it inside as we struggled to even fit it through our front door”, said Julie Zalesny, founder and Managing Director of the business.

“We were making desserts for corner shops, pubs, coffee shops and delicatessens.

“Sixth months later we opened our first 1000sq ft factory and have since purpose built this 18,000 sq ft production line to create our desserts on an industrial scale.”

Now, as a crumbly cheesecake base is carefully measured into baking tins, next door endless rows of tangy lemon tarts are being iced, sliced and carefully placed in boxes ready for distribution to restaurants, hoteliers and food wholesalers all over Britain.

The Humberstone Lane business has recently signed a contract with a worldwide famous brand that will almost certainly double their turnover.
(No, they can’t say who it is.)

“Today we’re making around 350 to 400 cheesecakes, which is an average day for us. It ta

kes about a quarter of a ton of mix”, said Liam Skinner, Bakery Production Supervisor, as he proudly inspected the finished layer. This sweet smelling bakery section is responsible for the beginnings of cakes, sponges and biscuit bases.

Leading the overall team is Operations Director Peter Simpson, who has worked under the Roux brothers in London. “We probably make between around 1,000 to 2,000 cakes a day, not to mention all our other products. Though our Tarte au Citron is by far the favourite dessert that we do”, he said.

This lemon luxury is handmade using Spanish lemon fresh cream made from real fruit and dusted with fine sugar. It scooped a gold star at the 2010 Great Taste Awards along with their traditional Swiss recipe country carrot cake.

It isn’t just the lemon tart that is so lovingly prepared with such fine ingredients. From mousses to "mulsters", the array of afters are made from fresh British cream, cream cheese and dairy produce. It’s all British – apart from the organic Fairtrade chocolate, which is from Belgium.

The spotless British Retail Consortium BRC Grade A accredited factory employs around 40 staff, some of whom have been there since the very beginning. Hayley Giles, has worked there for 14 years dusting, sprinkling, delicately decorating and painstakingly trimming the finished products. Now I watch as she places mouthwatering mandarin segments on an Orange and Whiskey roulade.

With their “traditionally influenced innovations”, Vittles make lip-smacking sweets from Blueberry Crème Brûlée to Bread and Butter Tart and Chocolate Eclair Cake to Chocolate Trifle Mousse. Not to mention their appetising Asian inspired Matcha Tea Pudding, made with fresh cream and infused with a fragrant green tea.

What’s more, Vittles’ are seeing in the Spring with their new addition to the foodie family, Flowerpot Muffins. These dainty delights are a garden of gourmet cupcakes, which come in blueberry, chocolate chip or muesli.

So next time you’re digging into that double chocolate muffin, chomping on that cherry cheesecake or munching on some Millionaire’s shortbread, think of Vittles. It could be your exotic dessert is actually a little taste of Leicester.

Served with cream, of course.

http://www.vittlesfoods.co.uk/

Written by me for Leicestershire Life magazine's new food supplement, which makes it's debut this June.

Photo credit to Leicester Mercury Media Group.

posh pub grub: the wick at both ends review.

With its midnight black exterior, vintage gold gates and elaborately painted sign, The Wick at both Ends looks like it could well be Harry Potter’s local.

Step inside to be greeted by an array of mismatched stools, quirky lamp shades and comfortable, well-loved armchairs. The friendly staff stand behind the bar stacked with a hodge-podge of curiously shaped bottles filled with alcoholic potions and poisons. I am told by head chef Nick Booth that from traditional beers to their signature sandcastle bucket cocktails, there will always be something to compliment whatever I choose on the menu.

As I gaze along the endless list of dishes from pan fried pork fillet with wholegrain mustard mash to baked polenta with stir fried broccoli, fennel and spring onion, the well presented menu tells me which dishes are “perfect to share,” what I can “add” and that “vegan options” can be ordered at the bar. I am already convinced that with these interesting ingredients and intricate combinations this is going to be so much more than a pub lunch.

“I would say that our food is classically English with a modern twist, with elements of Mediterranean food.” Nick, former senior sous-chef at Sheffield’s awarding winning tapas bar Platillos explained. Chef at The Wick’s sister pub, The Harley, who previously worked at The Wig and Pen, he tells me his influences include Marco Pierre White and Jason Atherton.

Monkfish wrapped in Serrano ham on a bed of samphire, olives and new potatoes

I choose the monkfish dusted with saffron wrapped in Serrano ham and butter fried. It is served with new potatoes, in a herb and caper butter with spring onion, rocket, samphire and kalamata olives. The lemony almost dressing-like butter with a distintictive yet subtle taste of caper berries has melted through the fresh tasting samphire. Delicately placed parcels of Serrano wrapped monkfish are at first crispy to bite and then soft inside. It is no coincidence that the seaweed family vegetable samphire, lemon and capers are the perfect compliment to a fish based dish.

The previous chatter with my friend turns into that “I’m-enjoying-my-meal-silence” as I glance over at her tucking into a platter of salt and pepper squid, Serrano ham, manchego cheese, hummus, tzatziki and rustic bread. Charming taster portions of this posh dipping platter

serve as a great light lunch or, I’m told, a shared starter.

With locally sourced ingredients from Sheffield’s All Seasons Fruit and Veg, Ray Woodward’s Yorkshire beef and Derbyshire’s Herb Table, there is no doubt these dishes have been made with loving care.

“I have recently designed this new menu to add more seasonal salads and Spring inspired dishes. My particular favourite dishes are the fish and the squid and grapefruit salad. But then we also have the hearty pies and enchiladas too.” continues Nick.

I finish with a duo of white and dark chocolate mousses served with shortbread. And instantly decide that I’ll be going back for seconds.

Like The Wick on Facebook

The Wick at Both Ends, West Street, Sheffield.